1. WHAT FOOD SHOULD I FEED MY CAT?
Canned
foods! Here’s why… The cat is an obligate carnivore.
In order to maintain optimal health, a carnivore requires a diet high
in
protein and minimal in carbohydrates. The cat is metabolically adapted
to use
protein and fat as energy sources. Carbohydrates become stored as
fat.
Dry foods have greater carbohydrate
concentrations because starch is necessary to make the kibble. In fact,
the
carbohydrate content of dry food is approximately 35-40% vs. only 10-18% in canned food.
Considering
the pet cat population, over 50% are overweight!
Obesity predisposes these patients to a number of disease processes
including
diabetes, urinary tract disease, joint problems, fatty liver disease,
non-allergic skin conditions, and inflammatory bowel disease. The way
to help
these cats maintain lean body mass and lose weight is to feed them
high-
protein, low-carbohydrate diets. In short, FEED
THEM CANNED FOODS!
When choosing canned
foods
avoid the fish-flavored foods and those containing gravies or sauces.
Fish-flavored foods are high in magnesium and can alter the urine pH,
and the
gravy is carbohydrate-rich. Offer your cat meat-flavored canned foods
to help
maintain optimal health! 
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2.
WHICH TYPE OF CAT BOX IS BEST?
Whatever works
for you and your cat! There are numerous cat
box fillers on the market and all have their pros and cons. We
recommend
starting with either plain clay or clumping sand. Unscented seems to
best
accepted by cats.
For
cleaning, the use of strong detergents or cleaners is
not advised as these can repel your cat from using it’s box. Simply
scrubbing
the box with HOT water and a mild antibacterial soap is
sufficient.
If your
cat or kitten refuses to use it's box, we advice contacting us as these
problem can be rectified on an individual basis.
3.
WHAT ABOUT BATHING AND GROOMING?
Cats are such fastidious groomers that
we
recommend bathing only if they should “get into something”. Excess
bathing can
dry their skin and remove the
natural oils from their coat. Cats with long hair
should be combed or brushed on a daily basis to help prevent matting and
clumping of the hair. Shorthaired cats should be brushed weekly with a
fine-toothed comb or soft brush.
4.
WHAT ARE SOME SIGNS OF ILLNESS?
The
most common sign of illness is the lack of
appetite. If a cat or kitten is not eating, something is wrong! The
best advice
to know if your pet is “sick” is to think of them as a
small child. Just as
with your children, if your cat is vomiting, has diarrhea, is
lethargic, is
limping, or just isn’t acting “right”, call us- That’s why we
are
here!!!
5.
GENERAL HEALTH CARE
One
of the most beneficial reasons for yearly
Veterinary visits is the physical exam your pet receives. Remeber, cats age more rapidly than humans!
How
Old is Your Cat in "Human" Years??
|
| Cats |
Human |
| 1 |
15 |
| 2 |
24 |
| 3 |
28 |
| 4 |
32 |
| 5 |
36 |
| 6 |
40 |
| 7 |
44 |
|
| Cats |
Human |
| 8 |
48 |
| 9 |
52 |
| 10 |
56 |
| 11 |
60 |
| 12 |
64 |
| 13 |
68 |
| 14 |
72 |
|
| Cats |
Human |
| 15 |
76 |
| 16 |
80 |
| 17 |
84 |
| 18 |
88 |
| 19 |
92 |
| 20 |
96 |
| 21 |
100 |
|
PREVENTITIVE MEDICINE
is our goal. Early detection of
diseases may prolong your pets life span.
Yearly
physical exams include:
- Heart
- Coat & Skin
- Ears
- Nose and Throat
- Mouth, Teeth, & Gums
- Legs and Paws
- Lungs
|
- Abdomen
- Lymph Nodes
- Urogenital Systems
- Nervous System
- Weight
- Client Education
|

|
|
6.
SURGICAL PROCEDURES
tr
LASER
DECLAWS should
be performed when the kitten is between 12 & 16 weeks of age. The
kitten at this age is grown enough to handle anesthesia well, yet small
enough not to have great discomfort from the procedure.
Older cats can be laser declawed also. A Fentanyl Patch makes it easier
for them and helps to easy any discomfort. If you are in this
predicament, please call the clinic to discuss your options.
SPAY for FEMALES
(OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY) done at 6 months of age.
NEUTER
for MALES
(ORCHIECTOMY) done at 6 months of age.
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7.
NEW
CAT CHECKLIST
Here
are a few things to do before bringing a
new cat into your home:
- Ask
your Veterinarian to check the new cat for
diseases such as FIV and Fel V, which could infect
other cats.
- Vaccinate
the cat against rabies and common cat
diseases.
- Make a litter box accessible, but not too
close
to the cat’s food dishes. If you have more than 1 cat, use several
boxes-1 per
cat if possible.
- Place
scratching posts or pads in strategic
locations so your cats can use them as alternative to upholstered
furniture.
- Establishing
more than one "dining area" if your cats show a preference for eating
seperately.
- Provide
variety. Cats find it easier to share a house that has many lookouts,
hideouts, and comfortable "nests".
8.
HOW TO KITTEN PROOF YOUR HOUSE
Kittens are naturally inquisitive,
which can
often lead to serious injury. Here are some tips on how you can make
your house
safer for the new arrival:
- That's
shocking! Kittens love to chew when teething. Keep
electrical wires out of reach, or use a pet-repellant spray to coat the
wires.
- They'd die for some
chocolate! Chocolate can be dangerous.
It contains Theobromine, a powerful stimulant that is toxic to pets.
Sweets, cakes and cookies can also upset the G.I. tract and lead to
diarrhea and vomiting.
- Treats can be
threats! Never give turkey, chicken, or rib
bones as a treat. They can splinter and cause serious injury.
- Common household
killers - Cleaning agents, bleach,
ammonia, disinfectants, drain cleaner, oven cleaner, gasoline, rat
poision..Keep the all locked up!
- Check the
anti-freeze! Pets are attracted to the odor and
sweet taste of anti-freeze. Store it high and tightly sealed, wiping
any spills on the garage floor. Window-washing solution also contains
anti-freeze. And remember, engine warmth promotes cat naps, so honk
your horn to wake pets under the hood.
- Killer house plants -
Poisonous plants include many from
the lily family! See toxic plant list below.
- Keep of the grass! If
you treat your lawn with chemicals,
keep pets away.
- It fit yesterday!
Collars and harnesses can be rapidly
outgrown, leading to serious wounds. Check your cat's collars
regularly, especially on that growing kitten! Two fingers should easily
fit underneath the collar.
- Personal care items
and medications - Cosmetics, shampoos,
skin creams, hair solutions, depilatories, suntan lotions, sleeping
pills, antihistamines, asprin and acetaminophen can all be lethal.
- It's not a toy! Do
not leave plastic bags out! Inquisitive
young animals, especially kittens, can suffocate or get thier neck
caught in the handles!
- The heat is on! Watch
out for hot irons, coffee pots, space
heaters, stove tops...Kittens will soon be able to jump to new heights.
- A dip tip-Keep covers
on hot tubs and swimming pools.
Kittens can easily fall in and not be able to get out!
- Kittens are attracted
to warmth. Be very cautious when
doing laundry because they can sneak into the dryer very easily without
your knowing it.
- Br-r-r-r-r-r it's
cold in there! Curious kittens have been
known to get into everything including the refrigerator! Be careful! A
great idea is to have a little bell on your cats collar so you know of
his/her whereabouts all the time.
- 'Tis the season! Keep
holly, mistltoe and especially
Christmas tree tinsel out of reach.
- Cozy up! Always use a
fireplace screen.
- Do you eat with
that mouth? If any or all of something will
fit in a mouth, it's dangerous. Watch out for cigarette butts,
rubber bands, balloons, sewing needles, thread, string, ribbons,
pantyhose...because what goes in must come out, often via surgery.
9.
PLANTS
TO AVOID/POISONOUS PLANTS:

Autumn
Crocus, Azalea, Baby’s Breath, Bird of Paradise, Branching Ivy,
Buckeye,
Buddhist Pine, Caladium, Calla Lily, Castor Bean, Ceriman, Charming
Dieffenbachia, Cherry (seeds and wilting leaves), Chinese Evergreen,
Christmas
Rose, Cineraria, Clematis, Cordatum, Corn Plant, Croton, Cuban Laurel,
Cutleaf
Philodendron, Cycads, Cyclamen, Daffodil, Devil’s ivy, Dieffenbachia,
Dracaena
Palm, Dragon Tree, Dumb Cane, Easter Lily, Elaine, Elephant Ears,
Emerald
Feather, English Ivy, Eucalyptus, Fiddle-leaf Fig, Florida Beauty,
Foxglove,
Fruit Salad Plant, Geranium, German Ivy, Giant Dumb Cane, Glacier Ivy,
Gold
Dust Dracaena, Golden Pothos, Hahn’s Self-branching Ivy, Heartland
Philodendron, Hurricane Plant, Indian Rubber Plant, Janet Craig
Dracaena,
Japanese Show Lily, Jerusalem Cherry, Kalanchoe, Lacy
Tree Philodendron, Lily
of the Valley, Madagascar Dragon Tree, Marble Queen, Marijuana, Mexican
Breadfruit, Miniature Croton, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law’s
Tongue,
Narcissus, Needlepoint Ivy, Nephthytis, Nightshade, Oleander, Orion,
Oriental
Lily, Peach (wilting leaves and pits), Pencil Cactus, Plumosa Fern,
Poinsettia (low
toxicity), Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Pothos, Precatory Bean, Primrose,
Red
Emerald, Red Princess, Red-margined Dracaena, Rhododendron, Ribbon
Plant,
Saddle Leaf Philodendron, Sago Palm, Satin Pothos, Schefflera, Spotted
Dumb
Cane, String of Pearls, Sriped Dracaena, Sweetheart Ivy, Swiss Cheese
Plant,
Taro Vine, Tiger Lily, Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem, leaves), Tree
Philodendron, Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia, Weeping Fig, Yew.

10.
WHAT
ABOUT VACCINES?

Did
you know that up to 3 cats in 10,000
actually develop a tumor (fibro sarcoma) at vaccine sites? These tumors
seem to
be related to the adjuvants in the vaccine. Adjuvants are additives
that help
to increase the vaccine’s immune stimulation and have routinely been
added to
all vaccines by the manufacturer. Current research also shows that some
of our
vaccines last longer than we previously thought. Your cat’s health and
well-being are our primary goal at Cats Veterinary and due to this
information
we are changing are vaccine recommendations.
- Current
information says that all cats should
still be kept vaccinated for RABIES and FV-RCP
(“distemper”).
FV-RCP vaccines have now been shown to create antibodies (protection)
for 3
years. Cats Veterinary now recommends that kittens receive a series of
at least
2 vaccines 3-4 weeks apart (the last must be when the kitten is at
least 12
weeks of age) to be followed by a booster 1 year later, then only every
3
years. You should know that we at Cats Veterinary have always used a
non-adjuvanted
FV-RCP vaccine. Cats Veterinary has always used a 3-year rabies vaccine
but
unfortunately these are not available in non-adjuvanted form. Until
they are
available we will be using a non-adjuvanted 1-year rabies product. Our
protocol
is a yearly rabies booster.
- Other
vaccines will be given on exposure
possibilities. FELINE
LEUKEMIA vaccines are no longer recommended on a yearly basis
for strictly indoor cats that have no exposure to other cats. If
exposure to other cats is a possibility (frequent boarding, breeder
cats, cats that go outside...) these cats should have an initial sense
of 2 vaccines 3-4 weeks apart followed by an annual booster, then once
every 3 years. Ask us about your cat's particular circumstance and we
will discuss its needs. Note: this is a non-adjuvanted vaccine as well.
Other vaccines we DONT'T recommend for your pet include: FIP,
Chlamydiosos, ringworm and giardia.
Kitten
vaccines:
Kitten
vaccines are given in a series of
injections to insure high levels of antibody
protection, which will protect
your kitten for 1 year after completion.
- FV-RCP (“distemper”)
vaccine- kitten FV-RCP
vaccines can be started as early as 6 weeks of age and are repeated
every 3
weeks until the kitten is 12 weeks or older. We recommend starting at 9
weeks
of age and repeat at 12 weeks.
- Feline
Leukemia (Fel V) vaccine- your kitten
must be tested for the Feline Leukemia virus prior to vaccinating.
Series of 2
vaccines, starting no earlier than 9 weeks of age and repeat in 3 weeks.
- Rabies
vaccine- a one-year vaccine given no
earlier than 12 weeks of age
11.
HOW TO
CHOOSE AN APPROPRIATE CAT TOY?

When
picking out cat toys you
should be careful with what
you choose. Cats and kittens at any age can find things around the
house that
are dangerous. Your cat, like a child, will put anything and everything
in
their mouth. Remember, anything that will fit in your cat’s mouth is
dangerous,
and whatever goes in must come out (often via surgery).
Here is a list of cat toys to buy and ones to stay away from:
UNSAFE CAT TOYS:
String
Yarn
Ribbon
Rubber Bands
Thread
Balloons
Q-Tips
Cotton Balls
Shoelaces
Tinsel
Plastic Bag
Nerf Balls
Nipples from Baby Bottles
SAFE CAT TOYS:
Laser Pointer
Large Toy Mice
Catnip Toys
Plastic Balls with Bells
Remote Control Mouse
Feline Flyers
Paper Balls
Paper Bags WITHOUT THE HANDLES
Scratching Post for Climbing
Foil Balls

Cats
live longer with a healthy mouth- a
scientific and statistical fact! A healthy mouth is one of the keys to
a long
life. Pets who receive dental care live 10-20% longer than those that
don’t.
The American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) reports that 70% of cats
have
some degree of dental disease by 2 years of age and that theses
problems are
often the first sign of more serious health issues. To be sure your cat
has the
best chance for a long, healthy life, and a full set of teeth in old
age, take
steps to prevent periodontal disease.
Dental care is often overlooked, yet it is a very important aspect of
yours cat's health. When you look into your kitty's mouth you may
notice brown discoloration on the teeth. As in humans, cats accumulate
bacteria plaque on the surface of thier teeth. If this plaque is not
removed, it becomes mineralized and hardens to form tarter and calcium
which is easily identified by this tan/brown color. Tartar usually
starts at the gum edge, especially at the back of the teeth. In severe
cases it may cover the entire tooth. The rate of tartar accumulation is
variable among cats. Genetics play a big factor in the extent of dental
disease your cat will have. On average, cats need routine dental
cleaning every 1-2 years.
Accumulation of tartar and bacteria on the teeth promote gingivitis
(inflammation of the gums). If caught at an early stage and a thorough
dental scaling and polishing is performed, most of the teeth and gums
will recover fully. However, if gingivitis goes untreated, then
irreversible periodontal disease will occur. Late stage periodontal
disease can cause permanent damage, including loose teeth and tooth
loss. Toxins released by the bacteria cause an inflammatory reaction
that can lead to destruction of tissue and bone that anchor the
teeth in place. The bacteria can enter the blood stream and is
associated with the damage to other organs, including the heart,
kidneys and liver.
Fortunately, preventative dental
care can help
you avoid dental disease in your cat!
Yes,
you can brush your cat’s
teeth!

The
most effective way of reducing plaque and
tartar is to brush your cat’s teeth. A number of toothpastes and
brushes are
available from your veterinarian that are specially designed for a
cat’s mouth.
With gentle patience and perseverance, it is possible to clean your
cat’s
teeth. In fact, if you brush your cat’s teeth every day you can
actually double
the time between dental cleanings at the vets! We can show you how to
do this
and give you tips to help this process to be painless and even
enjoyable for
your cat.
HOW
TO BRUSH YOUR CAT’S TEETH:
It
is best to begin home care
when the kitten is between 8 and 12 weeks of age; however, it is never
too
late. If the cat has any accumulated tartar, it must be removed
ultrasonically
at the clinic first. This will allow you to start your home care with
teeth
that are free of plaque and tartar and will make your efforts easier
and more
effective.
The
supplies you need include a finger brush or
child’s toothbrush and pet toothpaste.
NEVER
USE HUMAN TOOTHPASTE
ON CATS, as these
are not
designed to be swallowed and could cause problems.
Most pets accept brushing very
well if they are introduced to it in a calm and patient way. Always
proceed
slowly. This daily brushing process should be pleasant for both you and
your
cat.
Day 1: Gently pet your
cat and slowly lift the lip for about 30 seconds. Reward with a treat
at the end of the session.
Day 2:
Repeast as above then gently run your finger over yours cat's teeth for
30-45 seconds.
Day 3:
Repeat day 2 and add 15 seconds time to running your finger over your
cat's teeth. Always reward with praise and a treat.
Day 4:
If all is going well insert the finger brush/toothbrush into your cat's
mouth and rub the teeht for 30 seconds.
Day 5:
Repeat as above and increase the time the brush is in your cat's mouth
by 30 seconds.
Day 6:
Repeat as above and add a small amount of PET toothpast to the brush.<>
If
your cat does not do well with one of these
steps, go back to the previous step and try again. Daily brushing is
ideal, but
3-4 brushings per week will improve your cat’s oral health. Discontinue brushing
if your cat becomes aggressive! Remember to always
try to make it fun!
SIGNS
OF DENTAL DISEASE: 
There are a number of signs
that should alert you to dental disease or other mouth problems
presenting in
your cat.
- Decreased interest in
food
- Approach the food bowl
and then reluctance to eat
- Chewing with obvious
caution and discomfort
- Drop food from the mouth
- Swallowing with
difficulty
- Excess drooling
- Bloody saliva
- Facial swelling
- Unpleasant odor to the
breath
- Pawing or rubbing at the
face
- Head shaking
- Red or swollen gums
- Yellow-brown tartar or gray cheesey plaque build-up on
the tooth crowns
If
you see that your cat has evidence of tartar
accumulation, gingivitis or is showing any other signs above, you
should take
it to your veterinarian for examination.
DENTAL
PROCEDURE:
Dental
cleanings in cats require anesthesia.
Many precautions are taken to ensure that there are no unnecessary
risks with
anesthesia. Today’s modern anesthetics and monitoring equipment make
the risk
very low- much lower than the risks associated with untreated dental
disease!
We use gas anesthesia for the entire procedure (it is much safer than
injectable anesthetics.) A complete physical exam and pre-anesthetic
blood work
is performed to ensure your cat’s liver and kidney function is normal
before we
anesthetize your cat. All cats over 7 years of age have an IV catheter
placed
before we begin the dental procedure. An ultrasonic scaler is used
first to
remove the plaque and tartar, and then every tooth is
hand-scaled to clean well
up under the gum line. Each tooth is then probed for gum recession and
hidden
pockets. Just like when you are at the dentist the cat’s teeth then get
polished to make the surface smooth and shiny so plaque cannot reform
as fast.
Polishing is followed by a water rinse and then we apply fluoride to
strengthen
the enamel of the teeth.
A product called Oravet Barrier Sealant can also
be applied as the last step in your cat’s dental cleaning. This
provides an
invisible barrier that helps prevent plaque and tartar causing bacteria
from
even attaching to the teeth to begin with! There is also a take-home
kit that
allows you to continue this plaque prevention gel in
your home once a week to
maintain the barrier that your veterinarian established!
We
also offer dental radiograph screening. Many
problems under the gum line can only be detected through
taking an x-ray.
PREVENTION
is the best
protection from periodontal disease.
Preventing
periodontal disease by keeping your cat’s
teeth and gums healthy is a job for both the veterinarian and for you
at home!
While nothing can take the place of regular visits to the veterinarian
for
check-ups and cleaning, ongoing follow-up oral care at home is just as
important in helping your cat have the healthiest mouth ever!
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13.
HEARTWORM DISEASE ALSO AFFECTS CATS!

YES!
Cats are at risk for heartworm disease
too!!! Even indoor cats can
be affected. In
fact, up to 33% of reported
cases are in cats that are described by their
owners as strictly indoors. For cats, the prevalence of heartworm
infection is
directly related to the number of infected dogs in the area. Age is not
a risk
factor either; cats of any age can be affected.
How Does Heartworm Disease Occur?
The
cycle begins when a mosquito bites an
infected dog or cat and ingests heartworm larvae into its own
bloodstream. When
the mosquito carrying the infective larvae then bites into a cat
for a blood
meal these infective larvae are injected under the skin of the cat. The
larvae
grow for 3-4 months and eventually make their way into the heart where
they
develop into adults and can cause serious life threatening problems for
your
cat.
Symptoms of Heartworm Disease in Your
Cat:
Cats
can have a wide range of symptoms, with
some having no symptoms at all. Clinical signs can be very
non-specific, and
may mimic many other feline diseases, which makes diagnosing heartworm
disease
often difficult. Symptoms do not usually occur until damage has already
occurred to the heart. Signs are:
- Difficulty breathing
- Coughing
- Vomiting
- Collapsing
- Lethargy
- Anorexia
- Weight loss
- Decreased ability to exercise
- Sudden death
There
is NO treatment for heartworm disease once a cat is infected.
PREVENTION
IS THE KEY!!!
Heartworm Prevention:
Heartworms
are preventable NOT
treatable! A simple chewable “treat-like” pill given
orally to your cat once a
month year-round is all it takes. This preventative treatment should
begin
after a blood test has been conducted to determine if your cat has
already been
exposed or is infected.
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